This DIY is super easy, the combination of basic materials and a printable template means even a novice crafter can produce this chic, simple phone case for themselves or as a gift in no time.
cell phone case pattern
- Print out cell phone case pattern. Lay onto leather, tape in place. Use stitching awl to poke holes as marked on the pattern.
- Cut out pattern.
- Hand stitch in and out around the leather through the poked holes (will create a dashed line effect, see photo).
- Then, hand stitch in the same manner to fill in the unstitched areas. Be sure to overlap about 3 stitches to keep the stitches secure.
- Fold over the left and right triangle flaps. Sew together, making sure the 4 poked holes are aligned.
- Add e6000 glue to the bottom flap, tuck inside, and glue in place.
- Hold for a few seconds to allow the glue to set in.
Want to know how to paint this pattern on the leather and make a stylish leather sketchbook?It’s easy for DIY lovers, just follow the directions and you will have one for your own.
blue Scotch painter’s tape
15 pages of Arches cover watercolor paper (cold pressed) 6″ x 9″
2 nickel-plated Chicago screws
natural unfinished leather, 20″ x 7″
Eco Flo leather dye
wool for burnishing
Sennelier gold shellac ink
Eco Flo acrylic leather finish
- Cover the entire piece of leather with Blue Scotch painter’s tape and draw your pattern on top with a pen.
- Cut away tape with an X-Acto knife to reveal a honeycomb pattern. Don’t worry about making the shapes exact; subtle imperfections give the pattern a lovely organic quality.
- Mix one part water to one part dye. Put on latex gloves. Apply dye to sponge and press dye into the pattern, rubbing in a circular motion. Let dry for about 10–15 minutes.
- Gently peel the tape away to reveal the pattern. I chose to go back into my pattern with my ink pen for a pretty glow. Once dry, use a clean sponge to apply acrylic leather finish — be sure to wear gloves for this step. This will seal the entire surface.
- Cut down the watercolor paper to fit inside the book. Cut so that it is 1/2 inch smaller than the leather on each side. Punch the back of the leather and 1/2″ in from the binding in two places. Insert Chicago screws and tighten with screwdriver.
There’s something infinitely comfortable and classic about Kerr jars. Their look is timeless, they are easy to find and they are wonderfully replaceable when I fumble and drop one on the kitchen floor. However, a no-handle glass cup is definitely not the way to cradle a hot drink. Using some simple leather working skills and a few new tools, you can make a great insulator jacket.
leather scrap (I used 11oz bridle leather)
waxed cord thread
half-pint mason jars
leather hole punch
- First cut some leather rectangles to create the wrap. These jars are mostly straight cylinders, so don’t worry about any curvatures. If you’re using a different shaped cup, you can adjust the pattern. Cut your leather to a 2 1/4″ x 8 7/8″ rectangle.
- Using a tool called an edger, you can round the hard edge of the leather. It’s a simple tool to use — just push it against the edge of the leather, and it will trim the corner. I edged the top and bottom, just on the front side.
- For a decorative element, I used a stitch groover to cut small channels into the leather. It has an adjustment guide on it, so you can set it to different depths and make multiple parallel grooves. This is normally used to sink your stitches, but left open, it creates a nice contrast design in the leather.
- Once your pieces are edged and designs have been cut, it’s time to punch holes for sewing. I used another tool, called a stitch spacer, to make perfectly spaced marks for punching holes. Make sure you start your spacing at the same place on each side so your holes align, and use a straight-edge or ruler to keep the line straight to the edges. Then with your hole punch, create holes along the stitch marks.
- The last step is stitching. I knotted an end, started at the bottom and fully laced the seam once. Once completed, I laced back down the seam again for a strong doubled stitch. At the end, I pulled the remaining thread up through the underside of the stitch. The cord is so waxy that it will hold itself in place.
You can certainly experiment with the design on the sleeve and the stitch patterns. Maybe try stamping patterns into the leather using tools or stamps or even something like a rock to create interesting patterns and textures. There are many ways to customize it.
Today I’ll share you a fun DIY project of leather lunch tote. It may be a great choice to bring some healthy food with a cool lunch tote. Maybe you are not often bring lunch as work but it will also be nice to practice your hand sewing and to make something interesting.
Before starting, print out the template on your printer using the “tile” function and tape it together to 100% scale. The one shown in the pic was an earlier version before I decided to cut the flaps separately. You can cut this from one piece of leather, but there’s more waste with the voids than with making separate flaps. If you modify this for your own project, maybe it’s smart to use one piece? That’s where this experiment can get really fun.
6–7 oz. weight stiff leather
heavy waxed thread
leather punches — #5 and #00
leather sewing needles
- Cut your leather pieces and trim any frayed edges to a smooth cut. I’m using leather that is 6 to 7 oz. thick, and you’ll need something stiff to provide strength for the handle. If you want to use thinner leather, try cutting an additional handle from the template and sew those two pieces together for more stiffness.
- Take each of your interior flaps and prepare to mark your sewing holes. Using your stitching spacer and a ruler or straight edge, mark your holes. Use a stitching spacer with a large void, as we’ll be using thick thread, and a long stitch works best.
- Glue the flaps aiming inward to your main piece with contact cement. Use only a strip under where the stitching will go so your pieces stay aligned when punching holes and sewing.
- Once the glued pieces have set up, you can start punching holes for sewing. I’m using a punch, but you can use an awl instead. Punch holes according to the spacing marks through both pieces of glued leather. While you’re at it, pinch the handle-receiver end together and also the flap ends and punch some sewing holes through both layers there, too. You can freehand them, but try to maintain the stitch spacing you’ve been using.
- The final step is to hand-sew your pieces with two needles and thick waxed thread. Using the two-needle method and backstitching on your ends will give you a sturdy, long-lasting seam.
This style of photo album are compact, personal, and overall have a great design. Take a look below to read how to create one for yourself!
Begin by creating a collage strip of photos on your computer.
Next, print the collage onto a large piece of photo paper.
Then, cut out the strips of photos. I left a border along my photos, but this step is completely up to your own preference.
Bend the photos back and forth along the edges, accordion style.
Next, cut the leather into two pieces for the cover of the album. With a crop-a-dile, punch holes in the leather and thread the cord through. To find the correct length of the cord, stretch out the photo strips to see how wide it would need to be to see all of the photos.
Attach the back of the first and last images to the leather with the rubber cement. Let the rubber cement dry before moving the album.
Easy as that! I think what I love most about these photo accordions is the story you can tell in such a small amount of photos.